Note, I'm not referring to the console input power itself, but rather the (lower) voltage rail the main clone chip (NOAC/GOAC) runs on.
I've done some searching throughout this forum and the internet (even the Russian Mega Drive clone forums with lots of information on modifying clones) trying to find evidence of someone trying to run normally 3.3V NOACs/GOACs on 5V, but since it's oddly specific and niche, results have turned up dry.
That said, has anyone else tried it, or thought about trying it? Just want to figure that out before I sacrifice a pair of NES and Genesis clones to see what I find.
I honestly think there's a good chance that the "3.3V" clone chipsets have a good chance of working at 5V, and were just engineered to work with both 3.3V and 5V in order to support the option of clone consoles with built-in games on a 3.3V flash chip, as to not kill the flash chip. Plus, a lot of "3.3V" clones use a zener diode for the power rail, putting the supply closer to 3.6V-4V.
I've done some searching throughout this forum and the internet (even the Russian Mega Drive clone forums with lots of information on modifying clones) trying to find evidence of someone trying to run normally 3.3V NOACs/GOACs on 5V, but since it's oddly specific and niche, results have turned up dry.
That said, has anyone else tried it, or thought about trying it? Just want to figure that out before I sacrifice a pair of NES and Genesis clones to see what I find.
I honestly think there's a good chance that the "3.3V" clone chipsets have a good chance of working at 5V, and were just engineered to work with both 3.3V and 5V in order to support the option of clone consoles with built-in games on a 3.3V flash chip, as to not kill the flash chip. Plus, a lot of "3.3V" clones use a zener diode for the power rail, putting the supply closer to 3.6V-4V.
Statistics: Posted by ReverseRetro — Wed Jan 01, 2025 6:10 pm — Replies 0 — Views 78