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My Highly-modified, Unmodified NES for 8-player Duck Hunt

I set out on a mission to create the best NES arcade I could assemble. I've also been itching to develop an 8-player simultaneous form of Duck Hunt (4 light guns and 4 controllers). It's been a long journey, but I'm pleased to report I'm done with my hardware modifications (at least until we get an ethernet mod).
Never mind the whiskey in the picture... Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
:wink:

I'm calling this a highly-modified, unmodified NES, because all changes were made from the 72-pin up, and with the expansion port. There were no modifications made to the core of the NES and everything (aside from a hole in the top of the case) is fully reversible.

Summary of Improvements:
  • Component Video Output
  • Expansion Audio
  • Famicom Cartridge Slot
  • Equivalent of a Blinking Light Win (no need to push down)
  • 4 Controllers and 4 Light Guns (Sega Light Phasers) working in tandem
Steps to recreate:

For the cartridge slot, I installed a cheap 72-pin intentionally with a death grip. That's followed up with a Muramasa Low Profile 60-72 pin converter and then a Krikkz RGB Blaster.
Now the RGB Blaster is intended to go into a Famicom, so I had three problems: (1) the cable comes out the top; (2) the cartridge slot still can be moved up and down; and (3) if I pull games out/in of the slot the RGB Blaster will get unseated. The first problem was easy enough to solve with drilling a hole through the metal cover and the top of the plastic case. The second problem was solved with a couple Lego pieces placed between the spring and the cartridge casing. The third problem required some ingenuity. I created a 3D printed part to slip over the RGB Blaster. I also created some inserts to lock the part in place, preventing the RGB Blaster from moving towards me, up, or down.
The 3D printed part also ensures that Famicom cartridges are only inserted upside down - which is the correct way with the RGB Blaster in place. Finally, I added a grommet to make the hole on top of the case look a wee bit better. I used HD Retrovision's component cable to hook this up to my CRT. It works wonderfully.

I'm using the original audio jack coming out the side of the NES (with a stereo splitter), not from the RGB Blaster. This is because the audio mixing in the NES is done in it's guts (technical term), not on the cartridge. So to keep expansion audio working (more on that later), only use the original audio port.

I'm mainly using an Everdrive N8 Pro Fami which sticks out a bit too far to close the lid, but that doesn't bother me too much.
For the front controller ports, I ended up using an original NES Four Score combined with 4 8bitdo 2.4 Ghz wireless controllers. I LOVE this setup. It works like a charm.

Now on to the expansion slot. I wanted to have the ability to run 4 light guns simultaneously using D1-D4 on $4016 and $4017 while simultaneously having my NES Four Score plugged in. I bought an audio expansion card for the frontloader expansion slot. It was a lot of PCB for one resistor, but it came with solder points to access the rest of the expansion bus.

After some multimeter testing, I found the solder points I needed (plus 5V and ground) and used a DB15 cable to serve as my expansion connector.
I used a Dremel on the expansion port cover and another grommet to finish up the job. Now the solder points can't be tugged.
This DB15 cable plugs into my plastic project box (on the back of the picture below). Speaking of which, for my 4 light gun connector I used 4 DB9 male breakouts, a breadboard, some switches, an LED, and a schematic from Boojakascha: https://www.boojakascha.ch/index.php?page=phaser2nes

One switch controls whether the peripheral is powered on (also lights an LED on the left side). I found this was necessary to prevent some games thinking another type of peripheral was connected. The second switch adjusts the layout of the inputs. In the "standard" mode, the pinouts are:

$4016 D1 P3 Light
$4016 D2 P3 Trigger
$4016 D3 P1 Light
$4016 D4 P1 Trigger
$4017 D1 P4 Light
$4017 D2 P4 Trigger
$4017 D3 P2 Light
$4017 D4 P2 Trigger

This mode works well with existing games, like Duck Hunt and Chiller. But since I eventually want to run 4 light guns simultaneously, I added a second mode with the pinout:

$4016 D1 P4 Trigger
$4016 D2 P3 Trigger
$4016 D3 P2 Trigger
$4016 D4 P1 Trigger
$4017 D1 P4 Light
$4017 D2 P3 Light
$4017 D3 P2 Light
$4017 D4 P1 Light

The intent here is to just read $4017 on tight loop during a single flash screen after one or multiple trigger pulls. By having the light signals consolidated to one byte, I can pick up as many light measurements from the 4 guns as possible. I don't know if I'll end up needing this, but it's an option.
You may be wondering why Sega Light Phasers instead of original Zappers. The Zapper electronics aren't designed to be sensitive enough to be able to effectively detect both X and Y positions of the CRT electron raster. The Phasers were designed with that in mind, and the Sega Master System had a special hardware latch register to help the programmers detect that X position. On the NES, I'm planning on detecting X position purely through software polling, plus an algorithm to help me pinpoint the center of the light sensor readings. If that doesn't work well enough, I may create a new mapper to help me do this more effectively.

Anyway, there you have it! I added some wood strips to the shelf bottom in front and back of the NES to hold the console in place. Many many many thanks to the wonderful people on NESDev forum and discord that taught me all I know. I couldn't have done this without them, especially PinoBatch and Fiskbit!
Now it's time for me to learn 6502 assembly and get to modding VS Duck Hunt! My ultimate goal is to have 4 players simultaneously shooting 4 ducks on screen, where each duck is controlled by a person with a wireless controller. I'm still working out the details, but I'm planning for the duck players to have a 'taunt' feature to attack back at the shooters. I will be rewriting the engine for light detection to get rid of the one-box-per-duck approach, and instead use a single white screen (if I even need that). I'm using this patch of VS Duck Hunt as my starting point: https://www.romhacking.net/hacks/1308/

Here's the full list of hardware for those that want to do the same:

NES
Airbrushed NES Frontloader: https://www.ebay.com/usr/classicretrogamers
SUNJOYCO 72 Pin Connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HP2FFDN/
Muramasa Low Profile 60-to-72 Pin Converter: https://www.muramasaentertainment.com/p ... converter/
Krikkz RGB Blaster: https://krikzz.com/our-products/cartrid ... aster.html
Custom 3D Printed Insert: PM me if you want the STL file
Lego blaster bolts to hold up the cartridge slot: Found in any Lego set with a shooting apparatus
Everdrive N8 Pro Fami: https://krikzz.com/our-products/cartrid ... -fami.html
Expansion Audio Card: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1254293841/
NES Metallic Labels: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1536396584/
Grommets: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Ben ... /202522461
Audio Splitter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C3HJLBRN
HD Retrovision Component Cable: https://rondoproducts.com/products/hd-r ... on-genesis
Triad Power Supply: https://rondoproducts.com/products/tria ... dc-9v-1-3a

Controllers
NES Four Score: Ebay
4 8bitdo N30 2.4 Ghz Controllers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08536LMXN/
4-port Charging Cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5JZYX65
Stickers for Color Coding: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXB45FB2

Light Guns
Sega Master System Light Phasers: Ebay and Local
Project Box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS6RY85
DB15 Breakout Male Port: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JPF4BZ4
4 DB9 Breakout Male Ports: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082F849KQ
DB15 Female Cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T39JFYW
Electronics Kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERP6WL4
Multi-port Switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XMH174C
Transistors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T61SY9Y

Statistics: Posted by dagmor — Sat Aug 03, 2024 2:52 pm — Replies 1 — Views 161



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